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Blue
Ridge Marketing presents:
Blue
Ridge Pet Center
Crate Training
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Crate Training
If you like nothing better than
coming home from a hard day's work and finding that your dog decided to "go"
on the couch or use your favorite slippers as a new chew toy, then crate
training isn't for you.
But, if you're like most people, using a crate to
properly train your dog will be time well spent.
Crate training takes some time and effort, but it is a
proven way to help train dogs who act inappropriately without knowing any
better.
If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to
limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules—like what he
can and can't chew on and where he can and can't eliminate.

Selecting a Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or
collapsible, metal pens. But, more and more, pet owners want to get away
from the ugly and use crates that complement their home's decor.
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Decor crates come in different sizes from 24" deep to 45"
deep. They available in a variety of wood stains or in light or dark
rhino wicker / rattan and can be purchased at most specialty
pet supply stores. Most
decor crates also are ideal for use as an end table, bed side table or
plant stand - it does not have to be hidden anymore. For more
information just click on one of the pictures above.
Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him to
stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size
that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your
dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.
The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your
dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things
in mind while crate training: the crate should always be associated with
something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps.
Don't go too fast.
Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to
the Crate
 | Place the crate in an area of your house where the family
spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel
in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy
tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't
hit your dog and frighten him.
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 | To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small
food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way
inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay;
don't force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your
dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't
interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may
take a few minutes or as long as several days. |
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate
 | After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding
him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant
association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when
you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
If, instead, your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish
only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or
anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the
crate.
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 | Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat
his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do
this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive
feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in
the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be
let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time,
try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or
cry in the crate, it's imperative that you not let him out until he stops.
Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so
he'll keep doing it.
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Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to
the Crate for Longer Time Periods
 | After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate
with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time
periods while you're home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage him by pointing to
the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the
crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near
the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few
minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of
the crate.
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 | Repeat this process several times a day. With each
repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate
and the length of time you're out of his sight. Once your dog will stay
quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority
of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you're gone for short
time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several
days or several weeks.
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Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
 | After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate
without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for
short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your
regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few
safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting
ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't
be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from
five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
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 | Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they
should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for
entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't
reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited,
enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over
when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time
to time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left
alone. |
Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog
at Night
 | Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and
a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom
or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need
to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to
hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.
|
 | Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that
they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is
sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can
begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent
with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you
and your pet. |
Potential Problems
 | Too Much Time In The Crate.
A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel
trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while
you're at work and then crated again all night, he's spending too much time
in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical
and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age
shouldn't stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They
can't control their bladders and bowels for longer periods. |
 | |
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Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it
may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate,
or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the
training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for
whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case,
try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably
stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make
things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for
several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to
eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should
be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog
doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops
whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and
long to get what he wants. If you've progressed gradually through the
training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to
encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to
start the crate training process over again. |
 | |
 | Separation Anxiety.
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve
the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may
injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety
problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization
procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior
specialist for help. |
Adapted from
material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends
League, Denver, Colorado.
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